Passive Preamplifiers
back to Projects
Date: Ongoing. Last update July, 2005
Here is a basic schematic for an excellent passive 'preamp':

Notes: You can insert a source selector between the input and the
1k resistor. Speaking about the 1k resistor - it should be a Caddock or Vishay.
Weak link theory applies. The rest of the parts can even be sourced from Radio Shack and
the result will still be better than most things you can buy with a power cord. The
mute switch is a double pole. As an experiment and to test the concept, you can build this
with just the pot and resistor, and a couple of RCA jacks. 2x for stereo. Maybe $10.
Legal stuff: No warranties express or implied.
I am not responsible for damages to you, your system, or the building it's in, or loss
of use of any of that stuff.
Compared to several preamps under $5k, this is a winner! And
it's always 'warmed up' and ready to go. The breakeven point seems to be about
$4k. You have to spend that much or more on an active preamp to equal the sonic
abilities of a good passive preamp.
What's the catch? The power amplifier should have an input impedance of
50k ohms or greater. If you're wondering what a "k" is, click on
"Home" on your browser now.
A real user experience building a passive preamp (thanks to Herman V.), with minor
edits:
I didn’t want to spend huge amounts of time
on chassis work and appearance, so I purchased a “Mod Squad” passive on the
Internet used for $350. The interior was well thought out with obviously a
great deal of care used to run bare silver wire everywhere. It didn’t sound
all that great; somewhat better than a Conrad Johnson PV12, mainly in
extension not so much in clarity.
I thought the Alps volume and balance pots
were the most likely culprit and since I had decided long before to build my
own switched attenuator I ordered the Vishay S102 resistors and a Shallco
silver contact switch and mounted them into the same box (almost fit, I had
to cut a clearance for the Shallco).
The sound was quite improved but still a long way from stellar. The next most
likely problem I thought would be the silver wire or possibly the gold plated
RCA jacks. So I bought Cardas 5 nines silver (continuous cast and annealed)
and Cardas one step down from the top jacks. Now there was some additional
improvement but still a hardness that was out of place. I removed the input
selector and tape loop switches from the signal path – wow, that was it! The
improvement was immediate and substantial.
Finally the expected results from a passive pre; very open, grainless sound
with full frequency extension and great dynamics. Many people have said passives
lack dynamics I am loath to understand how this is possible, mine certainly doesn’t
suffer from this.
So my point is that even something as simple as a passive will only accomplish
great results with great care and the choice of great components. (I think your
example design with a 1 meg pot will suffer from cable capacitance and that the
sound will change with volume setting, most preamps can easily drive far lower
resistance why not default to a 100K or even a 10K pot?)
Good luck with your own design.
Feedback?? I am especially
interested in hearing about cases where a passive preamp did not perform up to
your expectations.
|